tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-122196492024-03-06T20:56:16.312-08:00Southworth SailorSouthworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.comBlogger860125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-41271388654192335152023-10-25T13:33:00.000-07:002023-10-25T13:33:03.239-07:00Paris <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuShYzrA3oULIwwlDCV5kUeY97KErXSHZ3_LuaOYOAEigHTvCrpr3fFAI7lLMyUJ_kbzz5uOaMGMymBzIb9gqFYh4V6sgQVYlydGpjGY4NVmZsrJ2CgxAmyuHXCvdo02nehj2CyX6Oah5rACoGXweTeGjbSwOZIp6ILOAHP6gjkbYowd-p-ITaw/s4032/IMG_8947.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuShYzrA3oULIwwlDCV5kUeY97KErXSHZ3_LuaOYOAEigHTvCrpr3fFAI7lLMyUJ_kbzz5uOaMGMymBzIb9gqFYh4V6sgQVYlydGpjGY4NVmZsrJ2CgxAmyuHXCvdo02nehj2CyX6Oah5rACoGXweTeGjbSwOZIp6ILOAHP6gjkbYowd-p-ITaw/s320/IMG_8947.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQP9fePbmjCVR_LiDM0B4tlC0HnMHx996LVVhi6sxfuGx2vKlNPnx3nj0pfHKBRgPdidolg9EFJkHt2P94ykR_NAcqjUSZHe-nWkhdZ9PHQ7Xxnxil3J5ae645pJ5Op3hBAXF5cKAG66ApsSZKLRdPpDP0Td339uyoTXoij4_Jhh6pu-rbTSi7Cg/s4032/IMG_9141.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQP9fePbmjCVR_LiDM0B4tlC0HnMHx996LVVhi6sxfuGx2vKlNPnx3nj0pfHKBRgPdidolg9EFJkHt2P94ykR_NAcqjUSZHe-nWkhdZ9PHQ7Xxnxil3J5ae645pJ5Op3hBAXF5cKAG66ApsSZKLRdPpDP0Td339uyoTXoij4_Jhh6pu-rbTSi7Cg/s320/IMG_9141.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> Since our return airline tickets were from Paris, we had planned to spend our last few days in the ‘city of light’. We took a train from Barcelona because we prefer to see as much of the countryside as possible. I was surprised how much of the western part of the French Mediterranean coastline was flat and not very scenic. Once we left the coast and headed north, the landscape was very scenic as it passed through the foothills of the Alps. We noted as we went through Lyon that our travels these past three months made a big circle and we were close to where we started the Camino in Le Puy en Velay.</p><p> We had a two and a half mile hike from the train station to our hotel. Even though we had our packs and and additional bag, we decided to walk so that we could give our legs some relief from sitting 8 hours and to see more of the city. We inadvertently walked right into a large Palestinian demonstration at the Place of the Republic, complete with a massive police presence. Our hotel was about a mile from the river and the Louvre, and was on a quiet street. which we have come to appreciate.</p><p> We spent three days in Paris; walking to the major tourist attractions, sometimes multiple times. We had to battle the rain all three days, but did have one day with lots of sunshine. Our leg’s just wouldn’t let us take public transit, and we enjoyed walking the different neighborhoods. Our longest walk was up to Montmarie and the Basilica, which was probably our favorite site, overlooking the entire city. We detest lines, so we skipped some entrances, but did join the thousands in the Louvre. Three hours in the museum only gave us time to scratch the surface of the amazing collection of art throughout history and from around the world. We somehow snuck to the front of the Mona Lisa crowd for a ‘close up’ view. The variety of food options in Paris kept us a little bewildered, because we wanted to enjoy the many ethnic foods, but needed to focus on French food. We had lots of crepes for breakfasts and snuck in some French onion soup.</p><p> Our European-Camino three month adventure ended with another flight back to Istanbul before a direct to Seattle. We have never had an adventure quite like these last months. We will cherish our Camino Walk and the cities we visited afterwards. We are so blessed for the opportunity to complete this adventure, and grateful for safety and health.</p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-60041830566396522482023-10-22T12:59:00.002-07:002023-10-22T12:59:49.092-07:00Barcelona <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhucRLAXkq6lMXw1ZnJvulOIzdqA7uWE5qeX3Gl5dExTGCtgTPdSwV7fytDQ8jam74ZbCqjiXdIP-TyTHQVNX3lx1xyNTB_ONkTniaQbzBlgcfQSnMeURU1qRZIQifjVwGq_cRWLmoM8GIiGCHowh1dfztLTQ13C9U8k_JpYyBK01TswQWdhEysCA/s4032/IMG_8671.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhucRLAXkq6lMXw1ZnJvulOIzdqA7uWE5qeX3Gl5dExTGCtgTPdSwV7fytDQ8jam74ZbCqjiXdIP-TyTHQVNX3lx1xyNTB_ONkTniaQbzBlgcfQSnMeURU1qRZIQifjVwGq_cRWLmoM8GIiGCHowh1dfztLTQ13C9U8k_JpYyBK01TswQWdhEysCA/s320/IMG_8671.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw2YlwF8702u3p49DYNdRwzqI3nLd9-eQDuRuTENMhJqXam99AbHp1C3eWDcTy5zvbR2gsilCUPN___8vckqWWhw9QPLJQ21bBtjOo236oxfkFtJd_yP493zOMeK-iXZ0PT8pyTTVNyE9CESc3pkBD9tDnuAP4zXWRXvFsrgK8lIw6bctAVkVOeA/s4032/IMG_8826.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw2YlwF8702u3p49DYNdRwzqI3nLd9-eQDuRuTENMhJqXam99AbHp1C3eWDcTy5zvbR2gsilCUPN___8vckqWWhw9QPLJQ21bBtjOo236oxfkFtJd_yP493zOMeK-iXZ0PT8pyTTVNyE9CESc3pkBD9tDnuAP4zXWRXvFsrgK8lIw6bctAVkVOeA/s320/IMG_8826.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We were happy to get out of the constant rain and enjoy the sunshine of the Mediterranean.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"> </span> <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Our accommodation for four nights was a dated pension with a stiff mattress and pillows, but the location was very central with a balcony overlooking the crowded pedestrian thoroughfare Les Rambles.</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"> </span><p></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"> <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We were amazed at the crowds of people wherever we went. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Barcelona hosts more than 8 million visitors annually; and the tourist season stays strong until the end of October. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The city bustles with tour groups, European vacationers, cruise customers and Spanish tourists. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Most of the popular attractions center on the works of Antoni Gaudi. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The city is very walkable and cycling friendly. (if you want to take your life into your hands). <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Street cafes and shopping opportunities fill every avenue and alley.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 34px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"> <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In our four days we enjoyed a variety of sites. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>One morning when our Camino legs cried for action, we took a long walk along the waterfront, past sandy beaches and marinas filled with megayachts. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Another afternoon we hiked up to Guell Park with its unique viaducts and mosaic features. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The hilltop park which overlooks the city is surprisingly the top tourist attraction. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Our usual spontaneity cost us no admission to the inside of Basílica de la Sagrada Familia, but we absorbed the fantastic exterior. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We did get tickets to the Picasso Museum, where we were introduced to the artist’s long career that evolved from realistic to the bold exploration of the abstract.</span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">During our stay we enjoyed a variety of foods, but our favorites were the Spanish classic of paella and a nearby cafe with its creative breakfast plates. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After refraining from shopping for three months, we took advantage of an extra luggage bag and began filling it up. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Denim jeans feel pretty good after months of quick dry outdoor clothing. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We thoroughly enjoyed Barcelona and would visit it again sometime.</span></p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-36902124954432079022023-10-20T00:27:00.001-07:002023-10-20T00:27:59.107-07:00Porto Portugal <p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 28px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh53hyJNDk8vREl4HaddJk0pAv97sO2VfZSuQke3yQWCAoFYElSK3W9mZYXULK8e4Y8XiRl5uQMF_DKxQSWfePDUm7GdeM92nLu0ISQ7HSE8d3nlU9vEEGRx-e1rxTebUGS4EgZOWmPDh9QG3boJOSoGulsQsr8WMyfji01nJCVPtglT3RIlNxwVA/s4032/IMG_5137.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh53hyJNDk8vREl4HaddJk0pAv97sO2VfZSuQke3yQWCAoFYElSK3W9mZYXULK8e4Y8XiRl5uQMF_DKxQSWfePDUm7GdeM92nLu0ISQ7HSE8d3nlU9vEEGRx-e1rxTebUGS4EgZOWmPDh9QG3boJOSoGulsQsr8WMyfji01nJCVPtglT3RIlNxwVA/s320/IMG_5137.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX5JSH2a8YA2_ne7aIIRjEWtvGQkg9HDvEbsIdPAwkgS5_2jnuFimU14S8F2ff2-eb-2LuDLMcC0qvBa_Spn8eVoBG6qMI8kpVEpz5H1jGnKwo5fbpleSDxf758qj5O1CVLJgGk9BW8q7BlUIo4gMQsU0MnEzGOzm7ijNzDMcT89mRMewNSM_Jig/s320/IMG_8638.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 28px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><br /></span></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 28px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"> We left Muxia on a crowded 6am bus to Santiago. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>From there we caught another bus to Porto, Portugal. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was hoping to get a good view of the landscape, but it was pretty foggy and rainy. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When we got to Porto, we had quite a hike to our apartment which was quite a distance from the city center. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We sloshed our way there with backpacks, looking like some lost pilgrims.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 28px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 34px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 28px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"> <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The afternoon cleared up for a beautiful walk down to the Dom Luis bridge and the iconic Douro River canyon. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The riverside was crowded with tourists, and for the first time in months, we felt like normal tourists rather than Camino pilgrims. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The slopes of the river were covered with colorful buildings, and the river bustled with classic Porto river boats. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After crossing the lower bridge and walking the southern waterfront, our Camino legs cried for some strenuous movement, so we followed our gps routing to the fortress and upper bridge. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It led us through the famous port wine cellars and a dead end at some winery headquarters. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Rerouting gave us an even longer route which eventually brought us to the fortress and upper bridge which gave a marvelous view of the city and river. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After heading back to our apartment, we found a cafe and had beef stew and cod and potatoes with cream sauce. </span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 28px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 34px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 28px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"> <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We had to change accommodations for the second night in Porto. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was close to the center of things, but we couldn’t bring our backpacks there until 3pm so we had to store them in a locker at the metro station. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The weather was horrible, with torrential rain at times. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We tried to salvage the day by shopping for a duffel bag and touring the cathedral.</span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 28px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 34px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 28px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"> <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When we tried to find our booked lodging, all we found was a graffiti covered door between a Tobacco shop and souvenir shop. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We could not get in touch with management for the lockbox code. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We stood with our backpacks in the pouring rain, trying texting, phoning and email, all to no avail. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In desperation, we went across the street to a tourist office where a very kind and patient woman helped us contact the manager who wouldn’t give us the code unless we sent him photos of our passports which we had tried twice to do. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The tourist shop lady finally used her phone and he gave us the code. </span></p><p class="p2" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 28px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 34px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><br /></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 28px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"> <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The room was nice and very conveniently located. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In the evening, we donned our raincoats and went back across the river to the port food market for dinner. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>We decided to fly to Barcelona and get away from the soggy Portugal coast. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So the next morning we were on our way to fair weather.</span></p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-69580729154134329852023-10-15T13:12:00.000-07:002023-10-15T13:12:05.800-07:00Camino Epilogue <div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTr9KVDotAFlWLWkO46X3yr6aawDOjJIksIW6OcudPcHU4ccYKZ_G1UvGQiP-z_lz8r71iGVpjGTy09noJmMNwdGVE1e9ti-1jmKWRepUXdULVvKs1ljoDvgU5Drkcy0xGKiTdxVKoxEFWDwOBctPXmRYbzdJRVtCO8NI3KcvbqsdsuL5mNMo4A/s320/IMG_8525.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p> It is a longstanding tradition of many pilgrims to walk to Finisterre (Fisterra) ‘End of Earth’ after Santiago; sort of like an encore. It is a three or four day walk to a cape and lighthouse that was at one time thought to be the westernmost point on the European continent. It is customary for pilgrims to go to the point and throw their shoes in the ocean or burn their clothes.</p><p> Esther and I had originally hoped to walk the extra days to Fisterra, but as we neared Santiago and also saw the weather forecast, we decided to take a bus instead. So after saying goodbye to our family and getting some rest, we boarded a bus; and after 70 days of only using our feet to move, we compromised and let some wheels do the work.</p><p> We spent a night in the town of Fisterra. We walked the 6k out and back to the cape. We were fortunate that after a day of deluge in Santiago, it was a clear afternoon for our Finnistere finale. We didn’t burn any clothes or throw any shoes. ( though we did see evidence of other’s doing it). We absorbed the beauty of the Atlantic Ocean as it collided with the rocky shores of the Iberian Peninsula. We also spent some time reflecting on our journey.</p><p> As if pilgrims just can’t get enough walking, there is another sea town of Muxia that the Camino connects to after Fisterra. Muxia is a picturesque fishing town on a narrow peninsula between the Atlantic and a sheltered harbor. We took another bus there and had a wonderful day walking the town and peninsula without backpacks. Though it was drizzling in the morning, we did get some nice afternoon sun breaks. The natural scenery is very similar to the Pacific coast, but the buildings reminded us that we were still in southern Europe.</p><p> Tomorrow we head to Portugal and leave any traces of the Camino behind. We have ten days left to enjoy Europe before heading home. The weather has definitely taken a turn towards fall with lots of rain in the forecast. In 70 days of walking, we had only 3 rain days. In many ways we are ready to go home now; but since we are here in southern Europe, we are going to dodge the rain drops and enjoy as much as we can.</p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-21927720035051696752023-10-12T14:24:00.002-07:002023-10-15T13:16:48.247-07:00The Finale <p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggiRfslYDexaQ9JdVcvod6M1QshOtOY6GV6A-G108p7WyHwHLHtP1-A_cKLK_wLyWs4RJ7VrIBFOjAiCgxa2Xu-9VjtRK6KMxoZr7XNd3pzU5ZsbEUhVk_uDARd0qH_Lv0Zq98ewIGN1OK9-Bcj3PdUMOIRe9uhypXtDBEqQSB39Z0MZPyR764VQ/s3814/IMG_8178.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2860" data-original-width="3814" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggiRfslYDexaQ9JdVcvod6M1QshOtOY6GV6A-G108p7WyHwHLHtP1-A_cKLK_wLyWs4RJ7VrIBFOjAiCgxa2Xu-9VjtRK6KMxoZr7XNd3pzU5ZsbEUhVk_uDARd0qH_Lv0Zq98ewIGN1OK9-Bcj3PdUMOIRe9uhypXtDBEqQSB39Z0MZPyR764VQ/s320/IMG_8178.jpeg" width="320" /></a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip00JRWbPrgd-zgXf_x8yUvd0HeM01JB7sEIUuhaln6ZApZPs8sFLTEEU80bnrn7BDLgSfhhtZEKLBYt_JVmnKhKu9rwlYC9ur7DVaHKtuzV9hz5KuM5yVNjfrF9uss9Ct6v0wZZvMsBIvJQdvxJBUgKCFOUd9MVgQdxX6CA_FyJ2t2A9RvnihHw/s4032/IMG_8165.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip00JRWbPrgd-zgXf_x8yUvd0HeM01JB7sEIUuhaln6ZApZPs8sFLTEEU80bnrn7BDLgSfhhtZEKLBYt_JVmnKhKu9rwlYC9ur7DVaHKtuzV9hz5KuM5yVNjfrF9uss9Ct6v0wZZvMsBIvJQdvxJBUgKCFOUd9MVgQdxX6CA_FyJ2t2A9RvnihHw/s320/IMG_8165.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Day 70 - Santiago de Compostela</p><p> We made it. It was such a blessing to have Calvin, Sassa and Manny walk the entire last day with us. Toast with fresh salsa spread was the breakfast of choice for most of our party. The name of the town we stayed was Lavacolla; it was the customary place where pilgrims bathed in the stream before their final walk to the cathedral. </p><p> Because of our short distance to the end, it was a smaller crowd this morning, which was fine with us. Much of our walk was through forest and farmland. Some of our friends passed us and everyone was in an excited mood. A few miles from the city the trail crested a ridge and provided a view of the city. The last miles were almost effortless, as our bodies and psyche sensed the end.</p><p> Entering the cathedral square, serenaded by bagpipes and holding hands, brought a flood of emotion and euphoria. It was hard to believe that the journey was finally over. The square was filled with elated pilgrims; cheering, hugging and taking pictures with everyone. Many just laid on the cobblestones against their packs and sat in silence, soaking in the majestic cathedral and the end of their quest.</p><p> The official certification process at the pilgrim office went surprisingly quick. The lady who helped me was extremely talkative, spending 20 minutes talking to us about our accomplishment and what to expect when we get home. We were given official certificates; one to declare completion and one to document our 1000 miles. We celebrated with our last pilgrim menu at lunch, and then found our apartment.</p><p> In the evening, we toured the courtyards of the Ritz Carlton hotel next to the square, and walked to a park that overlooks the cathedral complex. We topped the night off with pincho and vino bar which features a buffet of little portions. </p><p> Tomorrow we say goodbye to Calvin, Sassa and Manny who have been such a blessing in our final days of the Camino. Esther and I have been brainstorming words that encapsulate our experience these past two months. So far we have come up with ‘Amazing, Challenging and Rewarding’. We are extremely grateful to God for the opportunity to have this adventure, and for giving us health and safety these last 70 days.</p><p><br /></p><p>BUEN CAMINO</p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-23642097185723069242023-10-11T13:06:00.003-07:002023-10-11T21:58:00.427-07:00The Finish Line in Sight <p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3TF2zJD2onod9Lq5YOWenaVejwm19Mu-PIU7hcN2i0WxXSh1aMCqXKOrHqxZ5gUL35FdnKnc9VByvDSem0cGuPl7bV1rC92m5aS3qy_EbLymydrXqpwTctPcrSyl8PFNyRUW_j2uChJn4Q7Hm8AB_FicoVTYHqbR64vjtjjeJJcxT663y8v6w7Q/s4032/IMG_8102.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3TF2zJD2onod9Lq5YOWenaVejwm19Mu-PIU7hcN2i0WxXSh1aMCqXKOrHqxZ5gUL35FdnKnc9VByvDSem0cGuPl7bV1rC92m5aS3qy_EbLymydrXqpwTctPcrSyl8PFNyRUW_j2uChJn4Q7Hm8AB_FicoVTYHqbR64vjtjjeJJcxT663y8v6w7Q/s320/IMG_8102.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEdD-EqPn4mdd44rll-TAjnyW0C1LCjm1waPv1SNyL7kBn0raQsyF918TvmhZY8RcIegVY5Y7613ZGnSy0w221Nen3lVO68_p5VZ5CccOlzg3PCx8UtdWLRDp2Wx2pfSjwOa-ftR3p0GzRoMk4_F1yFoudOB1mQcUYCeZDxdoooPIsOzGz-6NMPg/s320/IMG_8122.jpeg" width="240" /></a></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsO5ddtxF-r0XGUx_XWUu-yLUKDjE2SK3LEuL1F9_rQ8t_6vd06AbVNBAoT620AVy2daVOGOoBvhJX0ma1PvUO_QBJQUkiiVEcCBX3uwdSxPbujKblLpftZo7KUVNOSVTwWIhz40j4EHVaALmlY8GXjDzBbO6aZjm_piuVkpiVCnlMVW52PENWgg/s3365/IMG_8125.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2644" data-original-width="3365" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsO5ddtxF-r0XGUx_XWUu-yLUKDjE2SK3LEuL1F9_rQ8t_6vd06AbVNBAoT620AVy2daVOGOoBvhJX0ma1PvUO_QBJQUkiiVEcCBX3uwdSxPbujKblLpftZo7KUVNOSVTwWIhz40j4EHVaALmlY8GXjDzBbO6aZjm_piuVkpiVCnlMVW52PENWgg/s320/IMG_8125.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>Day 69 - Lavacolla<br /><br /></p><p> Calvin and Sassa bought yogurt and muesli last night, so along with instant coffee, we prepared for our early morning start. Calvin and Sassa would catch up later by bus. Realizing that this was our last early morning and full day, we sensed a feeling of solemnity to the morning, as we walked together among the crowds of other pilgrims. When we passed Camino acquaintances, there was a feeling of excitement, knowing that the end is near. </p><p> As we mingle with the masses, a feeling of injustice tugs at us. We have been walking for two months with our packs, and the vast majority of those on the trail have been walking a couple of days; and most with daypacks, because they use a baggage service. We need to remind ourselves that everyone walks their own Camino.</p><p> As dawn slowly illuminated the landscape, an eerie blanket of mist laid low in the valleys. We walked through Eucalyptus forests with their straight rows and straight trunks. They have the feel of a crop rather than natural scenery. </p><p> Calvin and Sassa caught up to us by bus after we walked 20 kilometers. After lunch together, they walked the remainder of 9 kilometers to our last Camino lodging. The five of us had the trail mostly to ourselves because almost everyone had lodging in the town we had lunch in. We meandered through forest tunnels most of the way, while Manny and I took turns hiding behind trees to scare one another.</p><p> At dinner we met Mary from New Hampshire, whom we hadn’t seen for almost a month. She is 78 years old and tough as nails. She has kept pace with us, though she doesn’t carry her backpack. She gave us some valuable tech info to help our compostela registration. Tomorrow is our final day.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-43861352594317725492023-10-10T14:11:00.000-07:002023-10-10T14:11:03.646-07:00European Eucalyptus <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-rtPBUnmeR7DGsw-afVFyiCeV9hw6N7Xgv77yo-9VSwe7ceTLsbziEnNXBcS6CO7RmuAlxoppMHNFkEAW6xmiJukFmYiFiAHhbgyfGE955IE_DrxyZMJCThVZ8AMVvkQRwmi4Qb1G1YIDcZQ_u8SJwM-9QYfAN1X8IolL3yBwlD5Y0lLrWPg69A/s4032/IMG_4953.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-rtPBUnmeR7DGsw-afVFyiCeV9hw6N7Xgv77yo-9VSwe7ceTLsbziEnNXBcS6CO7RmuAlxoppMHNFkEAW6xmiJukFmYiFiAHhbgyfGE955IE_DrxyZMJCThVZ8AMVvkQRwmi4Qb1G1YIDcZQ_u8SJwM-9QYfAN1X8IolL3yBwlD5Y0lLrWPg69A/s320/IMG_4953.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHSKqOTzzYXrYUl_Zo4Rs2VpPb0Gy7E4yWpOj-LItKpHlckL45G0a1etQ7gjqqfTUK3INmFyNw73Dh0sWudIGimuMk9hGjb3Vbro-xkt3B-FYRLZ1GUbtPhOXJ018VaWSRK3SteTLU5BKMj78oxY4tFIqHLxrl7lohVILYJXwZpU-L_c1KZmnMVg/s320/IMG_8048.jpeg" width="320" /></a></p><br /> Day 68 - Arzua<p></p><p> Because we needed to cover 30k (18 miles), Esther and I left in the dark and walked 5 kilometers before breakfast. By late morning, we met Calvin and Sassa in Furelos, who took a taxi to meet us on the way. We walked into Melde where we enjoyed the local specialties of octopus and roasted peppers. We walked together for an hour after lunch before it was evident that if we were going to finish the day, Esther and I would need to walk alone for a couple of hours and the rest taxi ahead.</p><p> We met again at the medieval town of Rabidiso, where Manny enjoyed playing in the stream while waiting for Pappa and Farmor to get there. By then it was midafternoon and we all walked together up a long hill to Arzua and a two bedroom apartment. Manny seemed to have been energized by his stream playing, because he walked the whole 3 kilometers into town.</p><p> The scenery has changed a little with eucalyptus forests dominating the landscape. The local Galicians farm the trees to produce paper, even though they are not indigenous to the region. The trail is still very crowded with Spanish people walking from Sarria. There are a lot of young couples and many groups of young people, sometimes blasting their boomboxes while walking. Everyone has their own Camino!</p><p> In the evening, Calvin and Sassa had a date night and Papa, Farmor and Manny enjoyed the local playground and had frozen pizza and packaged fajitas in the apartment. We have less than a marathon left. Because of lodging constraints, we need to do another 18 miles tomorrow and 8 miles on our final day.</p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-7269703188761115132023-10-09T13:44:00.001-07:002023-10-09T13:44:15.928-07:00Getting Their Camino Legs<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQsDPqrwF0owMapPfD80YhKrxS2oyJOpQuOUts1_OOr2ngt03qneJo1_sdtuekfG2-05tnVzcCJtd6cKTBS-G3Uv-KwMmQVpcehAfBgUG81jGpeQ0Ww5lxY_8U7g1kcqz2jq6_tIavyZEnQfSS8EFP_T6b73tHDgFSzt3mb7fDg1IrSv-QJPB1g/s4032/IMG_4931.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQsDPqrwF0owMapPfD80YhKrxS2oyJOpQuOUts1_OOr2ngt03qneJo1_sdtuekfG2-05tnVzcCJtd6cKTBS-G3Uv-KwMmQVpcehAfBgUG81jGpeQ0Ww5lxY_8U7g1kcqz2jq6_tIavyZEnQfSS8EFP_T6b73tHDgFSzt3mb7fDg1IrSv-QJPB1g/s320/IMG_4931.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk5x7vZN2wui-e49FigLLNRtiEF-kJKXGffBkCp0DW6fFrnsQ3b9fVsHTQEJz36mLJNqiStp9R6BIk1nQfBRH34VMw8vh3M5RqiiRJlh3MUi0zsJDeZpQGf8mJ4eo7NMb3NlXkTh8JBKzYds8pHEc-Z6CQoEaQb1jwuZQCTXOaXd9DK6BTXT963g/s320/IMG_8040.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p> Day 67 - Palas de Rei </p><p> Breakfast was at the hostel. Bacon, eggs and toast was a welcome change. By the time we started, it was twilight, so we didn’t need headlamps. The trail was already filled with pilgrims and some had already walked 7 kilometers and were eating breakfast at our hostel. It was fun to introduce Calvin and Sassa to more Camino friends. Many of them had heard about their joining us. Manny continues to be the attention grabbing of the Camino. Today a farmer came out of his field to give him some candy.</p><p> Since we needed to only walk 11 miles (18 k) today, Calvin and Sassa decided to walk the whole day with us. Manny was amazing. He got attached to one of my trekking poles and fit right in with all the pilgrims with ‘sticks’. He walked almost the whole day, only getting shoulder rides when the adults felt the need to pick up the pace. We found that Manny is not the only little boy on the Camino. He met Marco, a two year old who gets to ride in a backpack. </p><p> The scenery was similar to the previous day and had less walking on pavement. The scenic highlight was the ruins of an ancient Celtic fortress that preceded the Roman Empire. It was situated on the top of a hill with a view of the surrounding valleys. Manny enjoyed scrambling on the rock walls and hiding from us. A lowlight occurred after watching a farmer manure spread his field. The pilgrims were attacked by the strongest awful manure smell you can imagine. Everyone had to cover their noses with anything they could find. Just before arriving at our destination, there was a playground, a rare sight on the Camino. The boys enjoyed the excellent zip line.</p><p> We have two hotel rooms tonight. The location is not real convenient. on the outskirts of town. But in the evening, we walked back into town and Calvin found us a nice restaurant where we enjoyed lentil soup and pork cutlets with a great flavor. It was fun to run into Peter and Elaine with their friends who came to join them in Sarria.</p><p> </p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-82765386165504046282023-10-08T13:46:00.002-07:002023-10-15T13:24:22.271-07:00The Little ‘Peregrino’<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFeh-bzcNSYI4MPEb9j5g5mLFb21K62vg4SbDYGd76bjcPnMdW1P28Xt1rdoBlOExm-hp8d8w_cL9shsNckDGdHBS_jkgzgCjgKkUvk8BPHeIBAXBHZ4Nszh5GurJRFNcLP_loupVwj3A8t1XG48IuPnz8Hfd6cld7N-8NPjHBxkpOx1KGGU4KXQ/s4032/IMG_4900.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFeh-bzcNSYI4MPEb9j5g5mLFb21K62vg4SbDYGd76bjcPnMdW1P28Xt1rdoBlOExm-hp8d8w_cL9shsNckDGdHBS_jkgzgCjgKkUvk8BPHeIBAXBHZ4Nszh5GurJRFNcLP_loupVwj3A8t1XG48IuPnz8Hfd6cld7N-8NPjHBxkpOx1KGGU4KXQ/s320/IMG_4900.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6UQ9v-Clr-y_Df9NHRvDnIptCAsHNtt2N2b7VCujKv18-ub2dkjMbylEzlsta5kYi4OnUBiAkojKpMT7B-OfVhpgw-hiDkP47oOb5Zcsxum4bBEO9zApoQxoBEnW_FPTDw4jXp9a-s2Wnr7hQsdq4nqOvW8cHuuY-Z7FbE0nsGItS8cRPHj-aIA/s4032/IMG_8003.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6UQ9v-Clr-y_Df9NHRvDnIptCAsHNtt2N2b7VCujKv18-ub2dkjMbylEzlsta5kYi4OnUBiAkojKpMT7B-OfVhpgw-hiDkP47oOb5Zcsxum4bBEO9zApoQxoBEnW_FPTDw4jXp9a-s2Wnr7hQsdq4nqOvW8cHuuY-Z7FbE0nsGItS8cRPHj-aIA/s320/IMG_8003.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div><p>Day 66 - Gondzar</p><p> It was a treat to share a bunk room with family rather than strangers. We did have to contend with a little snoring. We were up early and in the street shortly after 7:00. A quick coffee and croissant at a local cafe got us going. As we walked through the dark streets on the Camino, they began to fill with pilgrims. By the time we reached the outskirts of Sarria, we were sharing the trail with hundreds of pilgrims. Sarria is the starting point for many people who want to walk the final 100 kilometers to Santiago. The Catholic Church grants plenary indulgence (the forgiveness of sins) to someone if they walk the last 100 kilometers or more of the Camino. I’m not sure if that brings the crowds, or the recreation. In any case, we now have hundreds and hundreds of pilgrims on the trail. I’m not sure if Calvin and Sassa are working on sin forgiveness, but we are sure happy to have them as company.</p><p> Manny has become a bit of a Camino celebrity. Locals shower him with candy and gifts. Pilgrims hail him as they pass. We needed to cover 18 miles to accommodate the lodging squeeze brought about by all the new pilgrims. Manny did great, but required a lot of shoulder riding. By late morning, we decided that if we were going to make it in time to the hostel, we would need to separate, with Esther and I moving ahead and the rest walking to Portomarin and catching a bus for the last 5 miles.</p><p> The scenery was pleasant:pasture and forest, hamlet and churches, cats and cows. The hot afternoon grind up the hill was almost unbearable in the 85 degrees. A couple of pilgrims were at the point of heat exhaustion. The cold swimming pool at the hostel was just the ticket. Oh, this doesn’t feel like October! Tonight’s lodging has four beds and a private bathroom.<br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-92136466800376159372023-10-07T18:56:00.003-07:002023-10-08T12:29:13.776-07:00New Pilgrims <p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzalqg-TmPsGJQqNW8R7_DC5zyRkq_tDCMQzPmsKPnLV2IXkljap6Ua5On-_8pADHJdnoMoCcQYHevSCDhgkJXduCdv3gSAalimNIUzLWpYIzNmsnG0YrpmsmKxgrLxRroaS_b7QGnAARdLyukEfxVJs4mcCO9udtumZTeNHnzPdRl7sVKAkeFTw/s4032/IMG_4884.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzalqg-TmPsGJQqNW8R7_DC5zyRkq_tDCMQzPmsKPnLV2IXkljap6Ua5On-_8pADHJdnoMoCcQYHevSCDhgkJXduCdv3gSAalimNIUzLWpYIzNmsnG0YrpmsmKxgrLxRroaS_b7QGnAARdLyukEfxVJs4mcCO9udtumZTeNHnzPdRl7sVKAkeFTw/s320/IMG_4884.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmpUs4RAUcXi3dHVC4b7aPFLxOYLBDfLXcXKCU_z_-QBd3aqkcOcYdqZoAy-0qgz4Ufzgfofz8cASrOG4KJUnI2_04VM7Pp62Fh3fxMWBk-15CJt4nUFQLMJZ41wUcaTpwoLwmk_2wXl6aLYwBXgOhisOEe480wPlsO3nDspTpSvt_OtvUvpvAUw/s320/IMG_7953.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>Day 65 - Sarria </p><p> We received a complimentary breakfast voucher from our hotel and headed for the only restaurant open in the town. Pilgrims were lined up a dozen deep for some morning jo. We were about to bag it when a hostess saw our voucher and ushered us into a special room with a buffet breakfast (not an American buffet, but European breakfast buffet) We loaded up on coffee, fruit and bread. Leaving town, we opted for the shorter route because we wanted to be in time to meet Calvin, Sassa and Manny. The longer route included the Samos monastery and 7 more kilometers. </p><p> The walk down to Sarria was pleasant, pastured green hills and forests that changed from pine to birch. Occasional farm hamlets kept our aroma sensors active and kept us watching our step. Midway through the day, we met up with Roy and Nicole who accompanied us to town and gave us great conversation. </p><p> Meanwhile Calvin and Sassa had arrived by air in Santiago and were having a very difficult time catching a bus to Sarria, since everyone seemed to be heading there. After a couple anxious hours they were able to get on a bus and make their way to our rendezvous.</p><p> We arrived at our albergue to find a very cute cottage for us with a bunk room just for us. What a treat to have Calvin, Sassa and Manny join us on the Camino for our final days. We spent the evening catching up and enjoying the city of Sarria. We were also able to introduce them to some of our Camino friends that we met in town. Tomorrow will be an awesome day, sharing the Camino with our<br /></p><br /></div>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-18363178023605132212023-10-06T12:58:00.004-07:002023-10-06T13:08:54.128-07:00Sharing the Camino with Cows<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgghJiCtIfKhHP8xPpzBm8ZkfLsGeETABrtNoJ3tsLsSPQhsBkBoHvlo9aXVYowIdySXbZQvUQdr0APZ-U66yioOzFRtgwcMrGNw-0BGzBOKh96rRaVTUx79xpBVBQFv5pGkqRbTRs-P6Zn70UIcRyVweFmGnKJCdYta7zSTr05hjkyX0nwt5m_sg/s4032/IMG_7821.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgghJiCtIfKhHP8xPpzBm8ZkfLsGeETABrtNoJ3tsLsSPQhsBkBoHvlo9aXVYowIdySXbZQvUQdr0APZ-U66yioOzFRtgwcMrGNw-0BGzBOKh96rRaVTUx79xpBVBQFv5pGkqRbTRs-P6Zn70UIcRyVweFmGnKJCdYta7zSTr05hjkyX0nwt5m_sg/s320/IMG_7821.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhob8dJB1CG6nqPi-8w641xZS6YVj836p15mnhxdZ6-ncCelReUcQpvMg89TyGejlGULmUBQJ-Cm5gt2ln5-aLL3hKwLnwwkK4UUcFbITVRJKuho_GP6sR-t-W7dcCoZwIu0dWU28DxhqBHakiKtqIAcHAdBQUqqFGfWFfAlzcUc5mdWVOGo4FOrA/s320/IMG_7864.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUjC8O5QoilXssxyRh62Si0qAZxyPgUZa0vJBOVz4cuUje325Rzhngv5IX9FlK3Q7Ut7EldLM3mY2QRai0p2t1WhDtUGBA9bTBxGDDWxYaFMxRt_ddnz6lfLykWXadG8Tm49kt-5jp0CffBqiWwvx8PB54YfRaKqrW7hrwrB9yTi3fDYaHyKSyKQ/s4032/IMG_4876.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUjC8O5QoilXssxyRh62Si0qAZxyPgUZa0vJBOVz4cuUje325Rzhngv5IX9FlK3Q7Ut7EldLM3mY2QRai0p2t1WhDtUGBA9bTBxGDDWxYaFMxRt_ddnz6lfLykWXadG8Tm49kt-5jp0CffBqiWwvx8PB54YfRaKqrW7hrwrB9yTi3fDYaHyKSyKQ/s320/IMG_4876.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Day 64 - Triacastela</p><p> Our store bought breakfast from the night before got us going. We were the last out of the hostel at 8:30. We did not want to miss any scenery in the dark, and we didn’t have far to go. It is still very hard to get used to the daylight times. (sunrise at 8:30am, with sunset at 8:30 pm). It makes for a short morning, and long evening. </p><p> The church at O Cebrello is the oldest church on the Camino, dating back to the ninth century. Among the curious legends is that one cold wintery night, the bread and wine turned to flesh and blood, which is preserved in the Holy Grail kept in the monastery. The church has a unique side room with a perimeter lined with red candles illuminating the crucifix.</p><p> The descent down the mountains was a comfortable walk, unlike most descents on the Camino. The scenery was pastoral and dramatic. We met a crazy guy who is bicycling the Camino with a chicken. He claims that she lays an egg each day. The cage sits on the front of his bike. Passing through one farm hamlet, we were caught in a daily cattle run to the day’s pasture. Because of the narrow roadway shared by cattle and pilgrims, we accompanied the cows for a stretch, each eyeing each other with a bit of awkwardness. We didn’t get a chance to ‘run with the bulls’ in Pamplona, but we Caminoed with the cows in Galicia.</p><p> Slowing our pace a little to arrive in Sarria tomorrow gave us a long lazy afternoon in Triacastela at the foot of the mountains. We have a private room in a hotel and a good restaurant. It was fun to reconnect with some pilgrims: the travelintillburies from Canada, the four sisters, and a British lady we stayed with a few nights ago. She has since taken a face plant fall like mine, breaking her wrist in four places and having five stitches on her face. But that doesn’t stop her from continuing the Camino.</p><p> We are so excited for tomorrow! Calvin, Sassa and Manny will meet us and will walk part of the Camino with us. Many of our fellow pilgrims have heard that they are joining us and are anxious to meet them. </p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-10542092051212990772023-10-05T13:18:00.004-07:002023-10-05T13:19:33.342-07:00Entering Galicia<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwRukc1ksogzRvp6cYQgztgoWfpz8w3iRvj4AuUN8rnItTQEfRmczDNNiLzNKMA6gXFa0CvEOzSvrDcn28DbNMXbXFENZtGan5nsug2zY65iT-t_zRDygHT5FNgjKaoktynF_vI-QXeX3X1Ybc10pDFIPwuvbqWIM9uxvNcuE6Wf_NofhejxgZZg/s4032/IMG_4836.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwRukc1ksogzRvp6cYQgztgoWfpz8w3iRvj4AuUN8rnItTQEfRmczDNNiLzNKMA6gXFa0CvEOzSvrDcn28DbNMXbXFENZtGan5nsug2zY65iT-t_zRDygHT5FNgjKaoktynF_vI-QXeX3X1Ybc10pDFIPwuvbqWIM9uxvNcuE6Wf_NofhejxgZZg/s320/IMG_4836.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijOv8n4ftJogozNZ6CUTf9otVEccJvRHRrFGqI0SSje0G41V5PQkCiT4H-ZAiOCOW2-ZiVnj6S8Mp0GgZHFk9S5gh7lwwWCj1Fa0sLkqyOHfJcO0jx1RrzX9M_rVzeYPAZO85Av0oOpviziMRsgSZrkexvQpI4KOgT_zpUDvzH4LaCqmZeI4b1CQ/s4032/IMG_4844.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijOv8n4ftJogozNZ6CUTf9otVEccJvRHRrFGqI0SSje0G41V5PQkCiT4H-ZAiOCOW2-ZiVnj6S8Mp0GgZHFk9S5gh7lwwWCj1Fa0sLkqyOHfJcO0jx1RrzX9M_rVzeYPAZO85Av0oOpviziMRsgSZrkexvQpI4KOgT_zpUDvzH4LaCqmZeI4b1CQ/w240-h320/IMG_4844.jpeg" width="240" /></a></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOyQ4cq9GNtzDOyRgOgBUKsTrVkDZV0y52wbl0SSflIUsfGCXs_gbpfx_hFrW7U9EaFCg1Rclom2X35CS905l1FQ0YlH8p8BlpHQgJ4pmov72B5MTMeQI15uNKK4KsSdg_r94ZOfxIOLD02FUr2K5lGtFzFYFbLRFTQN8j3f5YFhF1KqHyihoXVA/s4032/IMG_7836.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOyQ4cq9GNtzDOyRgOgBUKsTrVkDZV0y52wbl0SSflIUsfGCXs_gbpfx_hFrW7U9EaFCg1Rclom2X35CS905l1FQ0YlH8p8BlpHQgJ4pmov72B5MTMeQI15uNKK4KsSdg_r94ZOfxIOLD02FUr2K5lGtFzFYFbLRFTQN8j3f5YFhF1KqHyihoXVA/s320/IMG_7836.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Day 63 - Linares</p><p> Our host last night was the sweetest we have had in Spain. She provided one of the few breakfasts, and gave us treats for the road. We needed every bit of fuel we could get as we ascended 3000 ft. today. Today’s scenery rivaled the Pyrenees. The sound of cow bells once again filled the air; until we came to a helicopter working the mountains. It would pick up buckets of concrete from a ready mix truck and then bring it to a power pole foundation. As we passed, it hovered directly over us, blowing our hats off. We felt like we were filming the intro to MASH.</p><p> The first part of the morning was very steep. Some pilgrims elected to use horses. At the summit was a tourist town filled with people who rode buses, cars or motorcycles. It was a little demoralizing after all our work. In addition, we found out that the town is a favorite starting point for some pilgrims. Are you kidding me! We have been walking for 900 miles! Yes, we passed the 900 mile mark today, leaving us 100 more miles to go. We also entered the final Spanish region of Galicia, where our destination will be. The region is a popular vacation destination because of its scenery. We are anxious to see it.</p><p> Our evening stop is a wonderful location; on a ridge at 4000 ft. Our hostel is very modern, but there are no cafes. Fortunately, there was a grocery store. We are sharing a bunk room with a young couple from London. We met a lot of people in the dining area, which is one of the benefits of eating in the albergue/hostels rather than a restaurant. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-29252507908649760572023-10-04T13:08:00.000-07:002023-10-04T13:08:24.641-07:00The Cats of the Camino<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEighivaoP9rdmY7-Ev3NBZn7JHDW-JpgCbFkWPjH7oREgea06UiV5WTj8NaJ-SiTJQQQFX6Wc_GT46JfikZZ1EmxXNiUxAYj3fbRj-C7ljIVK3PMdycxlFLT2YU-gBR3i5IQr1pr_B350449_Bx_k05y7Fry5CvpTWAP7v_WKk_DevamoH2uMaQNA/s4032/IMG_7709.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEighivaoP9rdmY7-Ev3NBZn7JHDW-JpgCbFkWPjH7oREgea06UiV5WTj8NaJ-SiTJQQQFX6Wc_GT46JfikZZ1EmxXNiUxAYj3fbRj-C7ljIVK3PMdycxlFLT2YU-gBR3i5IQr1pr_B350449_Bx_k05y7Fry5CvpTWAP7v_WKk_DevamoH2uMaQNA/s320/IMG_7709.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfHhyphenhyphendm7p3g-a5evpvuW-KQjJybvOL14s06W5lfhLER2l829yEkULhSI7wpP7KWzXIXvng7s9R7WU_z9XCKU64N0q8iiutw-2PF9O87KTWSytdEITzyJc5wj4qPqF7uqDyFjmnO2K8-4KqEVBfyIORWfiln6us3EVlkhMxO8iWrTuS-xDHvBbK8w/s4032/IMG_7766.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfHhyphenhyphendm7p3g-a5evpvuW-KQjJybvOL14s06W5lfhLER2l829yEkULhSI7wpP7KWzXIXvng7s9R7WU_z9XCKU64N0q8iiutw-2PF9O87KTWSytdEITzyJc5wj4qPqF7uqDyFjmnO2K8-4KqEVBfyIORWfiln6us3EVlkhMxO8iWrTuS-xDHvBbK8w/s320/IMG_7766.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMLb5kqZWfa27CQhwseJ8NR6G1mgSkuk0fz0pBUyIWlZdLbUoN5mE8gTPMN2gC8YwFr3w1_oKxdcZpc3tR6GfT-TJUg7aNbbxYRB4hWqIwEvErGkMAUYO8HxRLAW16CVeBtXKznhM9bZqkI_8JMXbTeByimr7HUa935anUYnGUeydBsvFcvi13w/s4032/IMG_7767.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMLb5kqZWfa27CQhwseJ8NR6G1mgSkuk0fz0pBUyIWlZdLbUoN5mE8gTPMN2gC8YwFr3w1_oKxdcZpc3tR6GfT-TJUg7aNbbxYRB4hWqIwEvErGkMAUYO8HxRLAW16CVeBtXKznhM9bZqkI_8JMXbTeByimr7HUa935anUYnGUeydBsvFcvi13w/s320/IMG_7767.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>Day 62 - Vega de Valcarsa</p><p> We left the deserted albergue and dead town without so much as a cup of coffee. As twilight turned to sunrise, we were treated to a new landscape of vineyards and hills dotted with hamlets. After about five miles, we finally came to a town with an open cafe, where we put our stashed Tabasco sauce to good use on our tortillas.</p><p> For basically the rest of our 19 mile day, we walked beside a quiet highway underneath a suspended freeway that climbed up a scenic mountain valley. We drowned out the distant traffic noise with podcasts, which we are reticent to do; because it takes us away from the Camino experience.</p><p> I wish that we had taken pictures of all the cats we have seen along the Camino. They seem to be everywhere, especially since coming to Spain. Many are in the little towns, but some are out in the middle of nowhere. When were contemplating and preparing for the Camino, we were a little concerned about dogs; since Esther has a fear of dogs since getting bit a couple of years ago. The dogs have been fine. The aggressive ones are always fenced or chained. We didn’t expect to see so many cats. </p><p> We are staying tonight in a very nice pension in a mountain town, a private room with a queen bed and a shared bathroom. For dinner, we found a nice restaurant that served Esther’s favorite Spanish dish, paella with seafood. It definitely made up for last night’s dud.</p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-38187504078324920482023-10-03T13:04:00.003-07:002023-10-03T13:15:28.480-07:00Castle town<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5xxzc529EfIDlIs2ER-iTED9jFTPhqCXLVf7s0DQ2lSEuuM580vbMcgc5PFaFGT1iVybNf2rUKJtzSgL9pTD3Uw0G-vAAq9wvXDEt5c2pz5PYbae1_LM8gZfd63N4MMJNvUXWnwb8lG5GOVFmTOo_6WOhVJtqyitTd-dDxHT4TJMJHU87-D9_sA/s4032/IMG_4757.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5xxzc529EfIDlIs2ER-iTED9jFTPhqCXLVf7s0DQ2lSEuuM580vbMcgc5PFaFGT1iVybNf2rUKJtzSgL9pTD3Uw0G-vAAq9wvXDEt5c2pz5PYbae1_LM8gZfd63N4MMJNvUXWnwb8lG5GOVFmTOo_6WOhVJtqyitTd-dDxHT4TJMJHU87-D9_sA/s320/IMG_4757.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivqmHxu_LWa5XCSMa26dIC3QO62ZNvbz1_bzfHIbeLnfsGR4oAbOrXrNi7fUzSfmaDhoJ_xCs0xUW9uMq_1FjJbpB0AEjB6Exrsv83NzES9zgIyVtD0DD-x0S0agEywPEVLh4vbGnfF33MvPf6FYrxnojOEMdOePReMvRxiXKvRMfyY180abxFIQ/s4032/IMG_4799.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivqmHxu_LWa5XCSMa26dIC3QO62ZNvbz1_bzfHIbeLnfsGR4oAbOrXrNi7fUzSfmaDhoJ_xCs0xUW9uMq_1FjJbpB0AEjB6Exrsv83NzES9zgIyVtD0DD-x0S0agEywPEVLh4vbGnfF33MvPf6FYrxnojOEMdOePReMvRxiXKvRMfyY180abxFIQ/s320/IMG_4799.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>Day 61 - Camponaraya</p><p> No breakfast, just coffee as we left the Hostal this morning. It was a pleasant two hour walk down the hill to the city of Ponferrada. We had a late breakfast of tortillas and bagels. We met James from Jersey, who packs a ukulele, and spent the morning with him touring the impressive Castle of the Knights of Templar. The knights of Templar mission was to protect pilgrims traveling to Rome, Jerusalem and Santiago. The castle and walls are constructed from local stone which included a lot of slate-the stuff we have been scrambling down the last two days. </p><p> The city of Ponferrada sits at the foot of the surrounding mountains and is very picturesque. We spent a fair amount of time walking through the city as we headed west. We passed a couple of elementary schools, which gave us a twinge of retirement guilt; but not for long!</p><p> The buildings in this valley almost all have slate roofing, from the ancient to the modern. We saw the same thing in a region of France. Once again, I am reminded of how the craftsman used what is available. Some of the more modern homes even use slate for siding.</p><p> We had sort of a strange evening as we had booked a room at an albergue, but it was locked up tight when we got here. After a couple of phone calls and an hour later, the owner arrived saying it was a day off, but he was honoring the reservations, but not taking walk-ins. There are only three other guests and the place is locked up. Fortunately, there is a nice courtyard to enjoy as it is on a busy street. Then when we tried to find dinner, everything was closed. We ended up buying some empanadas and dorito chips at a little store.<br /></p><br />Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-3674039852755062042023-10-02T13:30:00.000-07:002023-10-02T13:30:06.823-07:00Cruz de Ferro<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ICEZdecF0KxPmtSRggM2TFUxfvHFs3XorxzjRC7Wsqw0S1SBSYn5cCKLB-eRDXGPKiU8JYu3deba5Hj0TiRSlup2D95UvBDAMR7ceKhwoWhfovsWFmcYmVtVmMnBMWdvDnW271jOiR9S6tVOOwDow9wt0vibHSZ2Fm0JpAihPu12hklHrwQqqg/s4032/IMG_7544.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ICEZdecF0KxPmtSRggM2TFUxfvHFs3XorxzjRC7Wsqw0S1SBSYn5cCKLB-eRDXGPKiU8JYu3deba5Hj0TiRSlup2D95UvBDAMR7ceKhwoWhfovsWFmcYmVtVmMnBMWdvDnW271jOiR9S6tVOOwDow9wt0vibHSZ2Fm0JpAihPu12hklHrwQqqg/s320/IMG_7544.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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Today we had some of the most beautiful scenery since entering Spain. The Montes de Leon separate the Meseta plateau from the Sil River valley. We first climbed 2000 ft and then descended 3000 ft. The mountains were covered in oak and pine forests, with ridges full of heather and sage.</p><p> One of the most famous landmarks of the Camino is the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) . It is a pillar with an iron cross on the top, placed at the highest point of the Camino Frances. Pilgrims have been stopping here for centuries to place a rock from home as a personal symbol of meaning to their life. We both placed a scallop shell from Southworth beach and a stone. We were worried about crowds, but it wasn’t too bad. We arrived about 9:30 and spent some time soaking it in and helping pilgrims take pictures.</p><p> After a short plateau and another ridge, we descended for a few hours. The trail was a tough go filled with rocks large and small as well as ridged slate. We walked a long while with several people and made some new friends.</p><p> Our town for tonight is full of sore pilgrims, Descending is harder on the body than ascending, and there was a lot of descending. We had dinner with Peter and Elaine from Sandpoint, Idaho. Elaine was in pain as she developed tendinitis. They will be taking a rest day to help heal. </p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-18175501023686449942023-10-01T12:17:00.002-07:002023-10-01T12:17:49.212-07:001/6 Left to Go<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjalz09SQf0o4HMWSXYkmFKTZkOzoV-e2UXHydBYF3E57clcN8UuKcXobH4Q9bqtIlk1DCprFGTlkGqJO_025LXrTFEdT7yF4AgZr00jqjNbu3tvifPZSamyu98ByL156iNLDFBIgeOQ01_3ZzrUGRz1R2M_KrlgkmMTVzSv2BFqM76vF3_3ejJOA/s4032/IMG_7459.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjalz09SQf0o4HMWSXYkmFKTZkOzoV-e2UXHydBYF3E57clcN8UuKcXobH4Q9bqtIlk1DCprFGTlkGqJO_025LXrTFEdT7yF4AgZr00jqjNbu3tvifPZSamyu98ByL156iNLDFBIgeOQ01_3ZzrUGRz1R2M_KrlgkmMTVzSv2BFqM76vF3_3ejJOA/s320/IMG_7459.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxptnOXbQE4tTcn2RRZcoHj8_k1aROb51e7hjuJpwZt3mUzZHbigLpdBRyviq8t_S1knBX3VZEvz7xn2AG1OYhjVlcIHOyy_Wv9lltMS8YdAnO1cJtBwY0-vD9X2WVMNS8rJ9iBDAL1R1SCrCKjQeOLfBnC04UDTwv-yVVEAx8DIAQjpGCEuyOVQ/s2915/IMG_4711.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2915" data-original-width="2901" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxptnOXbQE4tTcn2RRZcoHj8_k1aROb51e7hjuJpwZt3mUzZHbigLpdBRyviq8t_S1knBX3VZEvz7xn2AG1OYhjVlcIHOyy_Wv9lltMS8YdAnO1cJtBwY0-vD9X2WVMNS8rJ9iBDAL1R1SCrCKjQeOLfBnC04UDTwv-yVVEAx8DIAQjpGCEuyOVQ/s320/IMG_4711.jpeg" width="318" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p> Day 59 - Rabanal del Camino</p><p> By the time we got out of bed, half of our room of twenty pilgrims had snuck out in the darkness. Using our headlamps, we packed up and were on the way by 7:30. There was no breakfast at the albergue, so we stopped at a shop and had a spicy tortilla and coffee. The full moon added some atmosphere to our sunrise exit of Astorga. </p><p> It wasn’t long before Wayne and Donal caught up to us. We had met Wayne the night before. Or I should say Esther met Wayne in the bathroom while he was shaving. (Albergue life brings some awkward scenes) Wayne is from Newfoundland, but lives in Vancouver. He had the unfortunate experience of getting an infection in his blister and developed cellulitis, spending two days in the hospital with IVs. He was told to stop the Camino, but after a week’s rest, he is at it again. Donal is a young man from Ireland, living in Australia. He is only on his third day of the Camino, having started in Leon. The two of them kept us company for the rest of the day’s walk.</p><p> It is so good to be off the Meseta and traveling through forests and hills. The small towns are very charming, with great pilgrim services. It almost makes us feel guilty, stopping at a cafe twice a day. We are a little nostalgic of the days in France when lunch was a baguette and cheese in a cow pasture. Some of the churches were open today and it was good to take a break for a few minutes. Unfortunately, I have the habit of bumping into kneeling boards in the dark sanctuaries and I have two sore bridges on the top of my feet.</p><p> Our accommodations for tonight are outstanding. A private room and bathroom in a quiet two room facility. The building is newly renovated and very comfortable. The really odd thing is that tonight is only twenty dollars more than last night. We were able to find dinner served early (6:00) so we could attend the evening prayers at the monastery church in town. Fortunately, we could follow along with an English program as they chanted on in Latin. There were about seventy pilgrims joining the prayer. At one point the gospel was clearly read in English, German and French. Tomorrow is a big day, a mountain and the famous Cruz de Ferro.</p><p><br /></p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-40260746749719373032023-09-30T13:46:00.002-07:002023-10-01T08:43:00.634-07:00Goodbye Meseta<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uaorYpJ-NtRCPj1eFrqnpFCdS2i36ptHWVfR-yXgRLWlWiHg_JFJjUdwCy2oxorbri4_OjPlJTN02ruwMiQuGakOdQWMs1t7-LH04F_EoCj-AfrhV7TRXeJJzhw0KRHbFLAqQcVadONMrg6U93q7q6lfwrWInnv_UHGEv05X_fsOqSZjqDDTGg/s4032/IMG_4664.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uaorYpJ-NtRCPj1eFrqnpFCdS2i36ptHWVfR-yXgRLWlWiHg_JFJjUdwCy2oxorbri4_OjPlJTN02ruwMiQuGakOdQWMs1t7-LH04F_EoCj-AfrhV7TRXeJJzhw0KRHbFLAqQcVadONMrg6U93q7q6lfwrWInnv_UHGEv05X_fsOqSZjqDDTGg/s320/IMG_4664.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfzOxS2gNRFDF-TvN4cCR9ygUJzTpMZ4SrwqqO5c4LEmO2r-tqksIehEdg7a7OrsCOSer_5x8Lk-0xPbM6LoAS898ZBkREfszqYrUOIPR16FWTX7ZpROuZQm8p33gD_cAHM_GOXTttcjqnDhOzW_FsRiTD5gRfF8MZmmAFYBIqy_MIYDsY-dXgaw/s320/IMG_4690.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><p>Day 58 - Astorga</p><p> What a treat, scrambled eggs for breakfast. Ham, toast and and an Americano con leche completed the meal. We were ready for the day. This was our last day on the Meseta. As the day progressed, we saw cornfields replace with pine and oak forests. The terrain started to get a little hilly and tomorrow we will enter the foothills of the Leon mountains.</p><p> We enjoyed some architectural interests today. The town of Hospital de Orbigo has a quarter mile bridge from the 13th century. It was also the site of some famous jousting. We ended our walk in the small city of Astorga. Besides another magnificent cathedral, Anoni Gaudi designed a magnificent palace next to the cathedral. We toured the inside which was amazing with every floor featuring columns and arched ceilings.</p><p> While visiting a church in one of the smaller towns, I noticed some sculptures of the risen Christ. Almost all church carvings are of Christ’s passion and death. Very rarely are there depictions of the resurrected Christ unless He is on the judgment throne. The fourth movement of St. Ignatius’ spiritual disciplines is a focus on experiencing the joy of the resurrected Christ, so I was glad to find the sculptures.</p><p> We enjoyed our evening in Astorga. There was an Audi car show in town, so there were a lot of people. We had dinner with Duane, Kirina and Peter from Harvard. We still need to work on our Spanish. Esther thought she was ordering nachos, but got a hot dog instead.</p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-32229958639026227132023-09-29T13:54:00.001-07:002023-09-30T01:33:42.161-07:00Tight Quarters <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWit4j7QZQshD7brimoqHYiHjEbJvDTRtqBmt36Qb4LKE2xp5C59z3nAy6ZclRiip_CYCRNyZpigYg324iIA8ncljr3ZI0F1DV6bx-OnNPWrr3sq1Yq2DvQ8iAHwuYh00gMUAW9Zxa5uER4cFHVnohIwFyMxpxjHW6_5OvugMHAiXizz3hipl2aw/s4032/IMG_4643.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWit4j7QZQshD7brimoqHYiHjEbJvDTRtqBmt36Qb4LKE2xp5C59z3nAy6ZclRiip_CYCRNyZpigYg324iIA8ncljr3ZI0F1DV6bx-OnNPWrr3sq1Yq2DvQ8iAHwuYh00gMUAW9Zxa5uER4cFHVnohIwFyMxpxjHW6_5OvugMHAiXizz3hipl2aw/s320/IMG_4643.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4LaDrD7yF_M0hJpKvzFB_fQih5f8WetSKLa8Pt1bDmIwszxC9nLkauGN5tiLe_m2iJQ8qreosWZ_zVZ6rkWsWTVMH4xZ7-m8nVamkv79bpBBKtoaDM8TDtllIvq-1qgYPKvGkKLtQJHqzIfFATv9t9svcAF3CvPortUbwzGDzB8tnm4Byngpug/s4032/IMG_7337.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4LaDrD7yF_M0hJpKvzFB_fQih5f8WetSKLa8Pt1bDmIwszxC9nLkauGN5tiLe_m2iJQ8qreosWZ_zVZ6rkWsWTVMH4xZ7-m8nVamkv79bpBBKtoaDM8TDtllIvq-1qgYPKvGkKLtQJHqzIfFATv9t9svcAF3CvPortUbwzGDzB8tnm4Byngpug/s320/IMG_7337.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p><br /></p><p> Day 57 - San Martin del Camino</p><p> The Spanish cities are such a contrast to the many villages along the Camino. The villages and towns are almost completely void of human activity outside the pilgrims and meeting their needs. The cities are very lively. Last night the lively partying didn’t stop in the street below until 6:00 in the morning. As we exited our apartment, we had one painful chore to attend to: discarding Esther’s Hoka tennis shoes. They were hardly used because they gave her blisters, but we lugged them around for 800 miles. With her new shoes, it would be pretty silly to pack them along. We wished that we could have dropped them at a donation center, but we hadn’t a clue where to find one. Into the dumpster they went. </p><p> We found ourselves walking against the flow again, as students, commuters and delivery services poured into the city as the pilgrims filed out. The scenery went back to the monotonous Meseta, though the distant approaching mountains promise a change of scenery, but with a price. Esther’s new shoes are doing great. She walked ten miles in them before switching back to sandals the last five miles.</p><p> Yesterday, after we took the opportunity to wash all our clothes, we decided to spread out everything that we are carrying on the bed and document it by a photo. My inventory consists of a shirt bag: three short sleeves, one long sleeve, a fleece vest, a windbreaker and a gortrx jacket (yet to be used); a bag of pants: three shorts and one long; an underwear ba, a sock bag, an electronic bag, a toiletry bag, a supply bag, sandals for the hostels, two sleeping bags and one of Esther’s Hoka tennis shoes (until today 😊) a medical kit and various other small items. My pack weighs approximately twenty-two pounds without water and food which some days can add five pounds. Esther’s pack weighs eighteen pounds before water and food.</p><p> Tonight we are in a newly built albergue, which is very clean and has nice facilities, except we are crammed into a tight room with less than two feet between bunks.</p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-78464887501949844622023-09-28T14:18:00.001-07:002023-09-29T12:58:47.060-07:00Lying around in Leon<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCJY928EJvupGePyVsXMJQKLMGPd3tbzNygSHnt4TkXn64N5RyJ0-2XlVeiRJ6OhJUBFApp8rN49Z-KC92qDR8acWGzE78qtq8EorOZhc20tbAN7uMyISUprnf0EQxplfkUZuxSYzGD1Vh84FMgD8A4o0NcfB-WYmUdbEWLRilgZmDF2MW3mxkfw/s4032/IMG_7291.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCJY928EJvupGePyVsXMJQKLMGPd3tbzNygSHnt4TkXn64N5RyJ0-2XlVeiRJ6OhJUBFApp8rN49Z-KC92qDR8acWGzE78qtq8EorOZhc20tbAN7uMyISUprnf0EQxplfkUZuxSYzGD1Vh84FMgD8A4o0NcfB-WYmUdbEWLRilgZmDF2MW3mxkfw/s320/IMG_7291.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRge_pj51t_-km_A4T1DJ8faj-tuA8MJUdJJVsDbjM9-3LnXWXuC2ZLvSsyB6VzB2d5GKLogFeSfSmyH4Nvm9hYqfbbdXBAWh3zuWC2BNUmettIAWxXSujNMsu0N1T3wp0Uw5fMI80vxUNjqsVvwxYvu2Mp9gM9DclQbUNmY5Fq3SxSe2t-psrNg/s320/IMG_4638.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p> Day 56 - The city of Leon is a historical and cultural gem. It was a perfect fit for our much needed day off from walking. We took the opportunity to sleep in a little and actually enjoyed making our own coffee in a tiny percolator. The first sight seeing we did was the magnificent cathedral. Built in the 12th century, it was one the prominent cathedral in Europe, featuring the exterior buttresses supporting the giant walls of stained glass. I was impressed with the thematic sequence of windows with the natural light. The front of the cathedral faces east as they all do. The rising sun shines through the nativity family, the southern exposure features the brightness of the gospels and early church. The shadowy northern wall features the prophet’s foreshadowing Christ. The altarpiece is a panel of paintings rather than the gaudy golden building of most altarpieces.</p><p> Next we peaked into the Casa Botine Gaudi, which is one the masterpieces of Antonio Guadi of Barcelona Cathedral fame. Then it was off to a museum featuring the original Roman fortress that preceded the city. Interestingly, the name Leon does not come from the king of the beasts, which all of the city’s insignia suggests, but from an adaptation of the’legion’.of the Roman army that settled here before the time of Christ. Some of the ancient wall winds through the modern city.</p><p> Since Leon is a favorite rest spot for weary Camino pilgrims, we met several ‘Camino friend’s’ that we hadn’t seen for a while. Chiefly among them was the Australian gang we had met in Pamplona. We had a great dinner with them along with the Canadian couple, Roy and Nicole. We also did some shopping and Esther got new sunglasses and a new pair of shoes. The sandals are not working well on rocky surfaces. Her Hoka shoes which we have been dragging around for five hundred miles will be donated to the pilgrim grab bag at the local hostel. Tomorrow it is back on the trail with backpacks full of clean clothes and fresh legs.</p><p> </p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-57372124078021211222023-09-27T14:25:00.011-07:002023-09-27T14:47:49.790-07:00Slugging it out in Spain <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoIAdAqL9zldBiUuammWvsCxQOsQi0NC1UMijjB-ML9Rm8Z9x7SWTHyzE6Rl4peZST_DsqipKlv4X-hKagXz9ydwDlGlZ1ZiXot1zuJp2fAb3muXUVPUHeNkdhNSM2tm2K6fXCEVxbhlfjcsDHX7UGKBKHWhvfxAKWZ2kcKm8Or5yy9ncrYzc2Fw/s4032/IMG_4565.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoIAdAqL9zldBiUuammWvsCxQOsQi0NC1UMijjB-ML9Rm8Z9x7SWTHyzE6Rl4peZST_DsqipKlv4X-hKagXz9ydwDlGlZ1ZiXot1zuJp2fAb3muXUVPUHeNkdhNSM2tm2K6fXCEVxbhlfjcsDHX7UGKBKHWhvfxAKWZ2kcKm8Or5yy9ncrYzc2Fw/s320/IMG_4565.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0se7Z8iPozW7DAcqNLAkydc5oI4zm_YV7pyHEih1tuRGYXV-dcx0pODG1q_l2-d_p-WOd-YTsCoQURtNXN-UzOLgzeq2BCGqRxAYw6gPnXFjge5f19m6M2lLjtUCsONtyk3W4AP7I_9mB9FKWfbE71Zp4SMFuHmLu_Rch_bLCn7rrVka_EpVf7A/s320/IMG_7278.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p> Day 55 - Leon</p><p> Debriefing an incident from last night brought some excitement to our morning. As we were crawling into our beds in the loft room with 6 others, we heard the screaming voice of the feisty young matron on the floor below us. It sounded like she was berating some pilgrim guests. Since it was in Spanish, we weren’t sure what was going on. We assumed someone had stolen something or disobeyed one of her house rules. There was a lot of yelling, but you could only hear her yelling in anger. The commotion carried on for about half an hour as it seemed to move to the lobby entrance. In the morning, we talked to couple who were in the room and witnessed it all. Evidently, a group of four German guests were upset about their dinner service. One of the German men and the matron got into a shouting match. Then the kitchen server, who was the matron’s brother got in a slugging match with the man and ended up breaking his nose. The police and ambulance were called and they took the man and his girlfriend to the medical facility. When the German was released in the middle of the night, they just started walking the Camino rather than go back to the albergue . You don’t mess with the albergue matrons on the Camino.</p><p> It was a 15 mile walk to the city of Leon. The sunrise was spectacular and the weather was pleasant. There was no breakfast in the town we slept in, so we had to walk 5 miles before we got our morning coffee, along with some great ham on toast with fresh tomato salsa. An interesting custom in France and Spain is the use of china dishes. It doesn’t matter what kind of a fast food bar or even stand that you buy food from, you are always served with china and silverware. Coffee is always in a cup with saucer spoon and sugar packet. Every piece of bread has its own plate. There is nothing disposable.</p><p> As we approached the city, we passed through several small towns, many with adobe walled buildings, which we have not seen yet on our journey. We arrived exhausted into Leon, and with a little bit of phone and texting work, we were able to find our studio apartment in the heart of the vibrant city. We are staying two nights and will enjoy our third rest day of the journey. We even have a wash machine and can do some serious laundry.</p><p> In the evening we met a journalist from Washington DC who just got here and is going to start her walk tomorrow. We sounded like seasoned veterans as she pumped us with questions. We also met with long Camino friends, Duane and Carina again. The five of us had pizza in one of the many crowded plazas in the city.</p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-3797343043365357132023-09-26T12:35:00.005-07:002023-09-26T12:40:39.363-07:00Storks and Cellars <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSrqQe8bvDHfZXvuDqxcFBryXPcRbDatU2oR18Y5tcvsaRLBgyWyD9DNOnMC8wB5C8ayqxcwIWTWUwTrXI_m2jWqJdwqDoAhC48vZOZCPEymx6a-FO4ycfoLyVQNhI6b0q6xlqSTlAZOLY3zOfzFWxlJNCWVu707irdXrFLo6bPFTtiumDVdgOxw/s4032/IMG_4556.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSrqQe8bvDHfZXvuDqxcFBryXPcRbDatU2oR18Y5tcvsaRLBgyWyD9DNOnMC8wB5C8ayqxcwIWTWUwTrXI_m2jWqJdwqDoAhC48vZOZCPEymx6a-FO4ycfoLyVQNhI6b0q6xlqSTlAZOLY3zOfzFWxlJNCWVu707irdXrFLo6bPFTtiumDVdgOxw/s320/IMG_4556.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYxD7rgzsnKch4Dr1Z23HgN_dHkRUfVLGcYH7O4DPVIv6lYmbgQdokGgv9SVedrBSOPPF98XLO26KdVpKZPTJ--HTQ3NUXBDjRlYh_1zUxijqHsaqRnd-ZiB6zHew9dilOv6qx24gKHP-6WH7CSomAsR13eacZkNqJha3FF0rVt45X9CmZ4WmxQ/s320/IMG_7193.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO-r-LJKCs1z8qeMg_vVsY0ndwqZU92ZXx0mH7c_BDzsID2H-YBCrWjvBIzj3Epmki-AlJ1yfdawl8hGGjf8TvgH1jykAjLA7X3EZIR6l7f97YU-rhn0TofjLyLbX2Sl6P50uSu9qVtPrQkHU1mOwDvIK00Z1oAIGHNJ28qfGCLkuJXx18TPW_JA/s2277/IMG_7175.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2277" data-original-width="1787" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO-r-LJKCs1z8qeMg_vVsY0ndwqZU92ZXx0mH7c_BDzsID2H-YBCrWjvBIzj3Epmki-AlJ1yfdawl8hGGjf8TvgH1jykAjLA7X3EZIR6l7f97YU-rhn0TofjLyLbX2Sl6P50uSu9qVtPrQkHU1mOwDvIK00Z1oAIGHNJ28qfGCLkuJXx18TPW_JA/s320/IMG_7175.jpeg" width="251" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p> Day 54 - Reliegos</p><p> The daylight hours here in Spain are messing with our seasonal minds. Sunrise is 8:15 a.m. and sunset is 8:15 p.m. When we start our mornings, it’s still dark until 8 and temps are in the 40’s. We are bundled up and it feels like mid autumn. However, in the evenings, it stays light until 8:30 and temps are in the mid 70’s, making it feel like mid summer.</p><p> We continued our trek across the flat Meseta. The scenery has not changed much. Most all of our walk today was on a frontage path next to a narrow deserted highway. Since Esther’s sandals are more comfortable on pavement than a rocky path, we often walked on the highway. We had to have our ears sensitive to any approaching vehicle, because they race by at top speed. </p><p> The monotonous way is broken occasionally by small villages of maybe fifty homes with narrow streets. Some are so quiet, you can walk all the way through town and not hear one person, let alone a barking dog. Other villages have street cafes and small plush hotels. We were fortunate to come across an impressive coffee bar with modern industrial design that could have been in Seattle. In fact, the barista who didn’t know a word in English had a ‘Seattle’ shirt on.</p><p> Our night stop is a sleepy village with a nice alberge where we are sharing a sleeping loft with six strangers. At least there are no bunk beds. On the outskirts of the village are some unique clay mounds with vents sticking out and tunnel entries. It turns out that they are private wine cellars. Some looked ancient and no longer functional; while others looked like Fort Knox. Another interesting feature in town are huge stork nests on the church steeple.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-23295102874753611432023-09-25T13:13:00.005-07:002023-09-26T03:12:12.629-07:00Marathon on the Meseta <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9eM6WvAmINIAH34bmYp4NF9O2WG7xRVBDHtWAeJmUqJz5vF1bBk8OfwQC4ogb6lzVZEmQGtHgZyBDwG7FXxeX79R7jrE7IZniLqkzJb3dIxQh3dtPqTkGSFipIgEMgwCHW59ZT3fo83t7LxUZdZhicZlDTBaCbf0A2PYnzLjCXSMXPkbm98nd4g/s4032/IMG_7141.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9eM6WvAmINIAH34bmYp4NF9O2WG7xRVBDHtWAeJmUqJz5vF1bBk8OfwQC4ogb6lzVZEmQGtHgZyBDwG7FXxeX79R7jrE7IZniLqkzJb3dIxQh3dtPqTkGSFipIgEMgwCHW59ZT3fo83t7LxUZdZhicZlDTBaCbf0A2PYnzLjCXSMXPkbm98nd4g/s320/IMG_7141.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhftHWHXWealE_FnAQYfwo1TcIG0qlazHzdPn7SE3OBZ7XvyIOtDTNMFXdlQ2pSpcrFmE-LU2WXPseO19gq_nopiOIQ0wuUUwEwiavTSNB_lwpHXuefZNFM001Glg34IU4yT3DCVl8VUwCYymWh3E9Y3OeehcrjujfsO3rRD74YlBcE2YmKfyoZ5g/s320/IMG_4526.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimv_Dzxnf7OxlhTSzl0G7yRequHs4lHeS4fY5xNxuT9x1WqOeaYV-1l2KzeDTn7s_5_VB6WeDmHZEPgbokSF491_oQiPWV-uu4OwdNtpCs8UpMe11cPSCDiYOuJ-NqE-rlP-1JbkT4-IHD5TYbWWLkbD8lwlO17zREm_lnqkV7chjxlktyVi5MnA/s4032/IMG_4529.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimv_Dzxnf7OxlhTSzl0G7yRequHs4lHeS4fY5xNxuT9x1WqOeaYV-1l2KzeDTn7s_5_VB6WeDmHZEPgbokSF491_oQiPWV-uu4OwdNtpCs8UpMe11cPSCDiYOuJ-NqE-rlP-1JbkT4-IHD5TYbWWLkbD8lwlO17zREm_lnqkV7chjxlktyVi5MnA/s320/IMG_4529.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpAJBaRpEijWLDXrJR6PEeib5dFYP2UOAt8nkcLivGvr3kOxmMnlSD3D-3F32d3HgcILkDhVPUCh_ZPwzukT9uiHQtFxlCXavX_rDRZCxVlsTzFLEhmOlsxq9FejyIZJ_saOnKr9-zw76DoZMJFjB1jy3hCFbIErCYhLhcXe7J7DKs4lWqUKsWAw/s4032/IMG_4535.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpAJBaRpEijWLDXrJR6PEeib5dFYP2UOAt8nkcLivGvr3kOxmMnlSD3D-3F32d3HgcILkDhVPUCh_ZPwzukT9uiHQtFxlCXavX_rDRZCxVlsTzFLEhmOlsxq9FejyIZJ_saOnKr9-zw76DoZMJFjB1jy3hCFbIErCYhLhcXe7J7DKs4lWqUKsWAw/s320/IMG_4535.jpeg" width="320" /><br /></a><br /> Day 53 - Sahagun<p></p><br /><p> Because of the long distances between towns on the Meseta and our desire to move on to new landscape, we decided to pull out the stops and go for what I am sure will be the longest day of our Camino. We walked 25 miles or 40 kilometers which our minds are more familiar with these days. For breakfast we ate tortillas (Spanish tortillas are like a potato quiche) in our room which we had purchased the night before, and used our last Starbucks powdered coffee in hotel cups. Then out into the dark morning to start our marathon walk. </p><p> We start our mornings now pretty bundled up, but shed the layers as the day warms up. The endless agriculture continues to be our constant view. We have noticed a marked difference between agriculture landscape here compared to the US. Here there are no houses and farm buildings scattered among the fields. The farmers all live in the small villages. They drive their tractors out to their fields which can be miles away. They keep the machinery in the small towns and sometimes in their garages. It reminds me of medieval times when peasants lived in the towns for protection, and then went out to the fields during the day. I am curious whether the current practices here are because of long held traditions or if there are strict zoning laws.</p><p> We made two stops today. One was the first town after ten miles of nothing. Another tortilla and a caramelized banana cake with coffee con leche. The next stop was after another eight miles. We stopped at an albergue in a tiny village and found many of our acquaintances settled in for the remainder of the day. We refueled and had great conversation. There were two other men named Peter which was a little unusual. One of them was a chef instructor who worked at the Seahawk’s training camp for twenty years. It was very interesting to hear him describe how Pete Carroll engaged with people. </p><p> It was hard to pull ourselves away from our new Camino friends and grind on for another seven miles to our destination. Our private room was booked through booking.com and it did not disappoint. After cleaning up and resting, we enjoyed pizza and veal steak for a very reasonable price.</p><p> </p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-17189813531369474672023-09-24T13:44:00.004-07:002023-09-24T13:50:34.392-07:00Roadside Ramblings <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fzkv4FmejAbNYeg15MZT0TrisWpdir2lRS8z90NwKnEI0tR_gB9EQr5QIbfMZHT54WWa9UhIeofappaX9rrsWo3_RmaABx82ep4t0Cyhjmd2JGE9N25NAKp6lWIOr7xoALp9lSaG0XKlN2rQwew-PCUM3Lk7Kv_5ybDAOer0bcTBNVx8uYJV7w/s4032/IMG_4503.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_fzkv4FmejAbNYeg15MZT0TrisWpdir2lRS8z90NwKnEI0tR_gB9EQr5QIbfMZHT54WWa9UhIeofappaX9rrsWo3_RmaABx82ep4t0Cyhjmd2JGE9N25NAKp6lWIOr7xoALp9lSaG0XKlN2rQwew-PCUM3Lk7Kv_5ybDAOer0bcTBNVx8uYJV7w/s320/IMG_4503.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR2MYl8bjCgBuHwTAhFYV8vTm4WUvKQIJ0vNzf53vq7g1a12YylQAE0eld8jHKadjad_s4AbmTYwPniyHPA_ZfbPY68_Vmvd2tfJ_w1o5MftrtctdVo04p99niInOM-OkcKdNhrR3qIo1po8lE-KCX8Tl-O74iZVomehwb6fjVeIc-edLq4T6rUQ/s320/IMG_4513.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRo9cf4-x_vvX3X6c4Wzv2Wbk85xBMUHb6FqU9jN-EUGilfhC9QsyIl6z0WP2dEiDHFkPx4Ze4kjis-Ba-e9-dnmOgKkFxyqk-BIEZjMDTtmdClev92RHgX2vXcGfp6Lsx8IxORvtTlBljZ2BDt8oAX8J0GrBnxgDz1vCyVwVPbAYPNPM8mKRi4Q/s4032/IMG_4515.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRo9cf4-x_vvX3X6c4Wzv2Wbk85xBMUHb6FqU9jN-EUGilfhC9QsyIl6z0WP2dEiDHFkPx4Ze4kjis-Ba-e9-dnmOgKkFxyqk-BIEZjMDTtmdClev92RHgX2vXcGfp6Lsx8IxORvtTlBljZ2BDt8oAX8J0GrBnxgDz1vCyVwVPbAYPNPM8mKRi4Q/s320/IMG_4515.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p> Day 52 - Carrion de Los Condes</p><p> We left the hostel at 7:00 because we had a long day of walking ahead of us. Because there were no services in town, we entered the dark morning with no coffee or food. After 2 miles we entered a deserted town where the pilgrims had already left. There were no cafes in town. We were so desperate, we ducked into an empty alberge dining room to see if there was any coffee left in the carafe. No luck; we had to look longingly at the empty cups and imagine the happy caffeinated pilgrims in front of us. We trudged on into the dawn and had to wait until the next town to finally enjoy two cafe con leches and some yogurt cake.</p><p> Fueled up for a few hours, we spent most the morning walking with a young lady from London. The trail today was probably the least inspiring of the trip, miles and miles beside a straight highway. Fortunately, there was not much traffic. The fields were either sun flowers, alfalfa or plowed for the coming winter.</p><p> Our long day of walking (21.4 miles) ended at 4:00 as we entered a large bustling town and headed to the hostel where we had reserved a private room. On the way in to town we met Carina and Duane and made a dinner date. You never know exactly what you’re getting when you try to reserve lodging. Sometimes you win and sometimes you lose. Tonight we won; we have a nice private room overlooking the town for 30 euros. We were able to connect with Calvin and Sassa on FaceTime and plan their time with us on the Camino.<br /></p><br />Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-32913507975678601312023-09-23T13:15:00.006-07:002023-09-23T13:15:54.705-07:00‘The Way’ side attraction <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibx1aHQL7ILBgNLUJ9eUOYhIY04mkx1ki_4bSa_1UT7nHPqALp5OXZuzYPJ9s-quRJruzsuudMLWinO57kNIeBHgKHMQT9NbfCn8huCXDw3kW3dNLdBeH0ylEiXA1GSVoK8e3hrSWO-mHkYwfxD4kgZQepymGW71n1EwPe7xwbFjAG6kjgGeKVUw/s4032/IMG_7051.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibx1aHQL7ILBgNLUJ9eUOYhIY04mkx1ki_4bSa_1UT7nHPqALp5OXZuzYPJ9s-quRJruzsuudMLWinO57kNIeBHgKHMQT9NbfCn8huCXDw3kW3dNLdBeH0ylEiXA1GSVoK8e3hrSWO-mHkYwfxD4kgZQepymGW71n1EwPe7xwbFjAG6kjgGeKVUw/s320/IMG_7051.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ZVhE0SSymhAWUjj3t_H1qpjuoQqWF6Xr-x0QRWtUxYua3W9w21K0C8MRc1kvA_F1vqdbBxIOTXKyal-kMnH4WWudgdZQRbIhsBzfvCp2QboLg13P7QtYXZdJOp0mu9JfnneukOJ5l6DlC5vozPgLC7Ghd_SmIQh7Z83YSP7vyuF3WVzxxbT4og/s4032/IMG_4494.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ZVhE0SSymhAWUjj3t_H1qpjuoQqWF6Xr-x0QRWtUxYua3W9w21K0C8MRc1kvA_F1vqdbBxIOTXKyal-kMnH4WWudgdZQRbIhsBzfvCp2QboLg13P7QtYXZdJOp0mu9JfnneukOJ5l6DlC5vozPgLC7Ghd_SmIQh7Z83YSP7vyuF3WVzxxbT4og/s320/IMG_4494.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p>Day 51 - Itero del Castillo </p><p> Before leaving our hostel, we got the full connection that the hostel owner has to Martin Sheen. Martin walked the Camino with his grandson Taylor in 2004 (before the production of the Way). One evening, they had dinner at the hostel owner’s parents’ house. His sister and Taylor fell in love and ended up getting married. She now lives in Los Angeles with Taylor, but is visiting her parents now with their daughter.</p><p> Though the morning was chilly, the sun soon warmed things up, and it was a pleasant temperature for walking all day. We are definitely in the Meseta; plowed up wheat fields as far as the eye can see. It reminds us of the Palouse (with medieval towns scattered around. Some interesting pine trees skirt some of the canyons. The fields were full of rocks, and there were piles of stacked rocks that farmers have been piling for centuries.</p><p> We walked most of the morning with Sophie, a Korean flight attendant who lives in New Zealand. The long afternoon was spent together alone, without a pilgrim in sight for miles. There was one significant ridge to climb up and over, otherwise it was a fairly broad level road. Our 19 miles today is a warm up for our 21 miles tomorrow.</p><p> We are staying in a municipal hostel that is off the Camino a little, and there are only three other pilgrims in the hostel. It is eerily quiet for a hostel. The hostel is managed by the only business in town, the bar down the street; where we had to check in and have our dinner. We ate dinner with our bunk room mates who are a nice couple from Brazil who only knew a smudging of English. And since our Portuguese is non-existent, it was a challenge communicating. They pulled out all their English skills together and we had a pleasant‘conversation’.</p>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12219649.post-27898056810876674592023-09-22T12:51:00.004-07:002023-09-22T13:15:55.407-07:002/3 Complete Another Milestone <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-e9dcPZwOHZnuyirlQkTP23ngGYeWRwmmHQBdMF0Q9mXJlgS1a3XZxLFRbqj1Z9MmTgJHu-MlHnk2UfwZIVqCJHX3CBZwZ2DTECtYLqiNcGT7JCGDXagLmTYii_uaqCnEdjpgun7-CUi9OxeR3R4hzdAUcwDDUp157p2moGBzN7P5kMT7dRXxA/s4032/IMG_6987.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-e9dcPZwOHZnuyirlQkTP23ngGYeWRwmmHQBdMF0Q9mXJlgS1a3XZxLFRbqj1Z9MmTgJHu-MlHnk2UfwZIVqCJHX3CBZwZ2DTECtYLqiNcGT7JCGDXagLmTYii_uaqCnEdjpgun7-CUi9OxeR3R4hzdAUcwDDUp157p2moGBzN7P5kMT7dRXxA/s320/IMG_6987.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><p>Day 50 - Hornillos del Camino</p><p> For 50 days we have been lugging around fleece and wool, wondering if we would ever need it. Well, today we pulled it all out and put it to use. The morning temperature was 44 degrees with a steady wind. As we walked through the city with school children along side in their winter coats, we wondered how we skipped fall. The forecast is for slightly warmer weather the next week, so maybe we can put the fleece away soon. </p><p> Today also marked a milestone on our Camino as we have completed 2/3 of the distance. We have walked 1000 kilometers (633 miles) since Le Puy en Velay, France, with approximately 500 kilometers left. We have also noted that in all those miles and the last 50 days, we have not been in a vehicle of any kind. No bus, train or automobile or donkey cart for that matter. The only means of transportation has been our feet. We sort of feel connected to the vast history of humanity who only used their feet their whole life.</p><p> We have entered the region known as the Meseta, a relatively flat treeless plateau with wheat fields and very few towns. The Camino stretches over 100 miles across this somewhat desolate area. Some people hate it and others love it. We will find out soon where we stand.</p><p> We had the opportunity to meet several new pilgrims today and spend some time hearing their stories. We met a couple from Michigan, a young lady from Sweden, a couple from Texas, and a woman from Bellingham, and a mother/daughter from New Zealand. We also had lunch with a couple from Ontario who had been hanging with the fun loving Australians that we met in Pamplona. It is hard to move on each day not knowing if we will see people again. We said goodbye to Eric, who is from Paris, and headed home. He will finish the Camino next year. You just get connected and then you have to say goodbye. It’s an unusual dynamic of Camino life.</p><p> We are staying in what is termed a ‘casa rural’ with a private room. It’s a very nice place. There is a great variety of accommodations in Spain; and when you reserve it a day or two ahead of time, you are never sure what you will get. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div>Southworth Sailorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16964965364614426549noreply@blogger.com0